When it comes to designing flies, I always start with one simple question: what are the fish keying on right now? Understanding what your target species is feeding on and how that prey behaves is the foundation of any effective fly pattern. From there, every decision you make, from size to materials, should work together to imitate that behavior as naturally as possible.
Start with Size and Prey Identification
The first step is figuring out what the fish are eating and how big it is. Size is one of the most important triggers for prey recognition. Redfish and snook, for example, can be picky about profile. Too large, and they’ll turn away. Too small, and they might not even notice. Matching the size of local shrimp, crabs, or baitfish is the best starting point for dialing in your pattern.
Decide What You Want the Fly to Do
Once I’ve got the size and general shape in mind, the next question is how I want the fly to behave in the water.
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If I want the fly to stay on the bottom, I’ll add lead or dumbbell eyes to get it down quickly and keep it there.
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If I want it to suspend or hover in the column, I’ll use lighter materials and neutral buoyancy.
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For topwater movement, deer hair or foam helps it stay high and push water.
That decision determines everything, from the materials I choose to how I tie the body and head.
Color: More About Contrast Than Accuracy
Color can matter, but not always in the way people think. In most of my fishing here in Tampa Bay, where the bottom is mostly light sand, I’ve found that purple, black, and brown patterns stand out best. These darker shades create strong silhouettes, which make the fly more visible to fish in varying light and depth conditions.
Sometimes, it’s not about “matching the hatch” perfectly. It’s about standing out just enough to get noticed without spooking the fish.
Research and Development: The Testing Process
Every pattern that makes it onto my site goes through a bit of R&D punishment before it earns a spot in the proven box.
It starts on the workbench, or more accurately, with a cup of water. I’ll drop each new fly in repeatedly to study its orientation, sink rate, and overall balance. If it doesn’t land or swim right, it goes back to the vise for adjustments. Sometimes the smallest tweak, like a different hook angle or shorter tail, makes all the difference.
Once the fly passes the water test, it heads out to the field. I’ll cast it on several different rods to see how it performs in real conditions, generally 12wt, 9wt, and 7wt setups.
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Tarpon and snook patterns get tested on the 12wt and 9wt.
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Redfish and bonefish flies are tested on the 9wt and 7wt.
It’s important to understand which rod best handles each pattern, especially when you’re targeting spooky fish that demand quiet, accurate presentations.
After rod testing comes the most rewarding or sometimes heartbreaking stage: trying to fool a fish. Some flies get refused, and those go right back to the drawing board. But when a pattern finally connects, that’s when I know it’s on the right track. From there, I check for durability and consistency, refining materials or construction to ensure each fly holds up and performs before it’s released on the site or promoted from the R&D box to the Proven box.
Final Thoughts
Designing effective fly patterns isn’t about copying exactly what’s already out there. It’s about understanding how fish see, react, and feed in your local waters. If you start with the right size, focus on realistic movement, and think in terms of contrast instead of just color, you’ll build flies that get eaten.
Experiment, test, and take notes, both on and off the water. That’s the heart of true fly design. Every miss and every eat is part of the process, and that’s what keeps it exciting.
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